The long beat south

Saturday 31 July 2010 Revolieu Bay, Epi 16  43.75S,  168 08.66E

In talking with other yachties it’s clear, everyone loves sailing north, but no one likes sailing south.  Little wonder the northern Vanuatu islands of the Banks and Torres are so rarely visited.

Boats arrive in Pt Vila, start heading north with a beautiful breeze over their right shoulder then finally realise half way up the country that this wind will be on the nose when it finally comes time to turn around and head home.  Occasionally the wind comes from other directions, and sometimes near islands or in the gaps between islands the wind will behave in funny ways, but mostly at this time of year it’s the south east trade winds that blow.

So it was with an air of trepidation that we headed off from Pentecost this morning around 3:30am.  The wind had been blowing strong at around 25 knots from the south east for the past few days so we knew we’d be in for some uncomfortable moments.  But the first stretch to the western tip of Ambrym Island was something of a dream run, however, as we set a course south west from Pentecost.  Speeds regularly tipped 8 knots as we raced over flat seas with the wind on the port beam.  The tricky bit was taking a left turn around the corner of Ambryn and setting a course south east for Epi; a leg we reserved for daylight, hence the early start.

Our initial expectation was for big seas and the need to tack a several times, but as things turned out the further south we headed the more the wind shifted east enabling us in the end to lay a course pretty much south east, roughly in the direction of Epi, our final destination. The seas were still quite big, but more than that, they seemed very confused with tidal runs in certain spots combining with the wind to create waves from all directions.  In the end we hand-steered the whole 12 hours to Epi and remarkably Matt managed to stay in his forward bunk through some of the worst of this, nearly bouncing off the ceiling at times.

Here at Revolieu Bay it’s calmer than a marina berth with the stars now filling the sky and the wind gusting down the lush valley ashore making our wind generator earn its keep as it spins into a frenzy every now and then.

We said our good-byes to the yacht Bob last night, but as we parted Bruce related a story of having been in the local village of Loltong on children’s day (24/7).  Apparently it was “games time” in the afternoon’s proceedings and this particular game seemed to be a cross between Pin The Tail On The Donkey and the one where the kids use a stick to beat lollies from a suspended paper donkey.

In this local Vanuatu game a child is blindfolded, given a pair of long pointy scissors and aimed in the direction of lollies hanging on strings from a nearby tree.  The object being for the child to use the scissors two-handed to cut the lollie-strings in order to score some treats.  As Bruce related, with a touch of humour and disbelief – disbelief that no one seemed to be injured or maimed – the child with the scissors never seemed to be in any danger.  It was all the other children gathered excitedly around, directing the blindfolded child, and just inches away from being stabbed, who seemed at greatest risk while the operator of the scissors wildly attacked the air like you would trim a hedge.  If it wasn’t for the children’s familiarity with knives, basically from the day they are weaned, and their ability to (mostly) avoid danger, the casualty rate from this game would no doubt be too high.

So once again, it’s time for bed.  It’ll be another early morning tomorrow as we take another hop south – to Havannah Harbour on Efate island and just around the corner from Port Vila.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and nearly “home”.

Rob Latimer

Copy from Chimere Ships Log
Saturday 31 July 2010
Waterfall Bay (Pentecost Island) to Revolieu Bay (Epi Island) – 75 nautical miles.

Flat calm, peaceful, picturesque anchorage. Fishing platform and reef to starboard.
“Bumpy sail” Good Progress towards Vila – 12 hrs.
Early start – no need to launch the dinghy.