Port Vila to Melbourne
Wednesday 18 October 2017
It was back on Monday 2 October that Chimere returned to Port Vila. It followed the conclusion of Mission 4 and a week-long sail south from the island of Vanualava. This is where most of the medical and dental team left the ship, choosing to fly home the fast way. It all seems ages ago now.
I’m now sitting at the Sydney airport – in transit home to Melbourne – after taking the Wednesday afternoon Air Vanuatu flight out of Port Vila.
Chimere is in the hands of her return-skipper, Cam Heathwood, and crew … Ray, Rob, Jonno and Gwilyn (it’s Welsh) … spending her final night on a mooring in Port Vila harbour.
After re-fueling, topping up the water tanks, paying the port and berthing, plus of course making everything (literally) ship-shape, the lines will be caste off for the last time early tomorrow morning as they set a course for home.
It’s been a very busy couple of weeks and it seems a bit strange doing a Ships Log from so far away, but then the last six months have been full of surprises and so nothing is really that unusual any more.
On the topic of re-fueling … with tanks getting low we chose to top-up with 80 litres in Luganville, on our sail south, after the evacuation of the Ambae folk. At the time we estimated we had around 100 litres left in the final tank; about a day and a half’s full-time use. So I was interested to receive a text from skipper-Cam a short time ago informing me that they had just filled up with 1,296 litres. That’s 104 litres less that our 1,400 maximum holding capacity. Without the extra 80 litre top-up, we would have had just 20 litres in the tank on our return to Port Vila – which might have been a bit too close for comfort ?!
Supporters Tour
Of course the “Supporters Tour” has kept me busy over the past couple of weeks, or at least between 6-16 October, with 18 people joining us in Port Vila for a fun time of adventure and “local engagement”. With Chimere tied up at the Waterfront and my dear wife Linda staying with the group up the hill at the Melanesian Hotel, it was also a chance for me to spend some time off the boat, enjoying the comforts of clean linen, air conditioning and balcony views.
By all accounts everyone had a great time on the Supporters Tour, with the key activities including The Village Experience Tour, (including complimentary use of the BEST Public Toilet in the South Pacific), The Day Sail (aboard Chimere), The 3 Hour Tour and the full day Church and North Efate tour; with lunch at the Olory Beach Restaurant.
A massive thank you to everyone who signed up for the tour and for making it such a success.
Thanks also go to Ari, that wonderful travel agent from HelloWorld Pakenham, who has been so generous with her time and skills. Her continuing support of MSM has been invaluable. If you are considering travel – anywhere – then we’d certainly recommend you call Ari for a chat.
Looking back on some highlights of the Supporters Tour…
… it was certainly a thrill to see and experience the Best Public Toilet again … particularly how well it has been maintained, with local lady Asel playing a big part in this !!
The Village Experience Day showed just how things have developed over the past four years since the first Supporters Tour in 2013. There was the welcome, the singing, the food, the custom teaching & activities, the handmade dress (for the ladies) and shirt (for the men) plus the inclusion of a range of other local tours, including the Tanna Coffee factory and snorkeling at “Top Rock” – making for a very full day
Then there were the two “Day Sails”, from Port Vila around to Hideaway Island, with a “few” local Ni-Vans invited to come along; all designed to enhance that “local experience”.
To ensure the cost of transport from the village wasn’t an issue, a bus was arranged to transport everyone the hour from Paunangisu to Port Vila, with the expected number being around 12 – maybe 15 – a bus full.
In the end total numbers came in at 40 on the Tuesday and 35 on the Wednesday, with only 10 these being what you’d call “white-folk” tour members. I suspect that once the word got out in the village it was hard to turn them away. Fortunately a swag of them were little kids, who didn’t take up much space, with someone later commenting on Chimere’s harbour exit and return that we looked like a “refugee ship”. It certainly had the feel of the Lolawai evacuation exercise, (refer to Ships Log “Boat People of Ambae”, 30 Sept 2017) just without the luggage, plus pig in a bag and bats in the fridge.
Despite the numbers, or maybe because of the numbers, it was such a fun and memorable day. An experience all will remember for some time to come.
Of course, it all eventually had to come to an end and so after a 4:00am wake-up call on Monday, the Supporters Tour members returned to Australia on the 7:00am flight. With all the “tropical relaxation”, there’s no doubt some will be returning to Australia in order to catch up on some sleep.
Return-crew now aboard
Monday morning might have seen the Supporters Tour members fly out, but the afternoon saw Air Vanuatu’s big plane return from Sydney with Chimere’s new crew of five. The task of preparing Chimere for the return voyage starting almost immediately.
Eddiy
Eddiy, our “regular” boat painter, sander and now polisher, has been helping out in the maintenance department and even came out on the two Day Sails to assist where needed. He met us at the Waterfront on our return from up north and was keen to start “paying off” the seven day’s work he owed us under our earlier agreement whereby we’d bought him a solar unit for his island; so he could earn money from charging mobile phones and devices.
With the money he’d earned from earlier work, Eddiy was able to get a passport, and with the aid of his work references was recently accepted under the “farm worker” aid program. This program has the dual benefit of enabling Ni-vans to earn good money from hard work – which few seem afraid of – while supplying reliable labour to Aussie farms.
Last week Eddiy thought he might be headed to Queensland in a couple of weeks to carry bananas, but as it turned out he ended up at the airport at the same time as me this afternoon. We initially thought we’d be on the same flight.
However, after receiving his passport and boarding pass, Eddiy discovered – along with 15 other similar blokes – that he was going to Katherine. Katherine !! in the Northern Territory. “You really are in for an adventure Eddiy” I said as we discussed his specific travel plans – Vila to Brisbane (on a Virgin flight leaving around the same time as my Air Vanuatu plane) – then a flight to Darwin – then a bus down to Katherine …
Eddiy is not one to show a lot of emotion, but I could tell he was excited on the inside, as I explained that the Port Vila to Brisbane flight was probably an hour shorter than the Brisbane to Darwin flight.
While in the queue I also had a chance to chat with the labour-hire agent; the guy who had recruited all the blokes, secured the farm work-contract and sorted out all the travel details. A kiwi guy named Danny. By way of introduction I explained to Danny that … “my friend Eddiy here has done work on my boat and we did a reference for him … “
Seeing the way he interacted with each of his 15 fellows, speaking to them in Bislama, I could tell Danny had their interests at heart. I continued our conversation after he’d done his last handshake and good-bye to each individual in the queue and it was like he was seeing off his own sons. I’m sure he had a tear in his eye as he explained that “these guys have a good 7 week contract … they’ll be earning $22 per hour and should be able to rake in $1,000 a week”
“What about a bank account?” I asked. “I understand they are paid in cash?”
“No. The first thing they’ll all do when they get to Katherine, will be to open a personal bank account, and they’ll get a Debit Card. And they’ll be paid directly into that account.” Explained Danny.
It was reassuring to hear and after 15 minutes of chatting (it was a slow queue with two international flights leaving around the same time) Danny and I were good friends. I even discovered that he’d done a Hort Sci degree at Massey University whereas I’d done a Hort Com degree at Lincoln University, Christchurch just a few years before him.
(Having heard and read the occasional “bad story” about certain farm worker experiences I made the point of checking out Eddiy’s agent Danny on my return to Australia. From all I’ve read he seems one of the best. Check him out at … www.nougro.com )
Morning Tea Farewell
As the clocked ticked on my remaining time in Vanuatu, the Clerk of the Presbyterian Church in Vanuatu, Pastor Alan Nafuki organized a farewell morning tea for me yesterday, which was a great privilege. Many people came, even Kalmarie, Roger and Margaret from Paunangisu Village, plus Richard Tatwin and others I have got to know well, and work closely with, over the years.
Pastor Obed Moses – now president of the country – wasn’t there of course, but I was keen to leave a gift for him; a religious stole made by Yvonne from North Ringwood Uniting Church, along with an MSM Mission 2017 shirt.
“We will go up to the President’s residence and deliver the present personally”, exclaimed Pastor Alan.
So after a few phone calls Alan announced … “11:00 o’clock we see President Moses”.
Meeting president Moses
Leaving the morning tea around 10:45am and the remaining plates of sliced fruit for others to enjoy, Pastor Alan drove the relatively short distance to the Presidents compound parking at the shop across the road. We then made our way past the guards at the front gate (after a brief chat) and into the front office, where we were directed to the “waiting chairs”.
The air conditioning was cool and there were quite a few men in crisp black suits and highly polished matching shoes. Conversations and instructions were given in hushed tones and then at exactly 11:00 o’clock we were shown into the President’s office to handshakes and smiles all-round.
Our 20 minute conversation covered a range of topics, with particular focus on the National Oral Health Survey that PCV Health and MSM were coordinating on behalf of the Vanuatu Ministry of Health and why it was so important as a foundation for establishing a national strategy in this vital area.
President Moses spoke more about Vanuatu being a “Christian Country” and that this is something now, more than ever, they needed to hold onto and reinforce; in accordance with the country’s constitution.
At the end of our conversation, feeling somewhat under-dressed in my sailing clothes, I was able to hand over my gift and get the obligatory “happy-snap”.
A big thank you to Pastor Alan for being the “key” that opened the President’s door and also of course to Pastor (President) Moses for making time at such short notice to see me. I feel very honoured
In parting, I wished President Moses well for the remaining 4 years and 10 months of his tenure as president, on behalf of North Ringwood Uniting Church, MSM and the people of Australia.
PVP meeting
In order to reflect on the Supporters Tour and the priorities looking forward, time was made for a Paunangisu Village Partnership (PVP) meeting, attended by Kalmairie, Margaret, Roger and me.
The village expressed a desire to uphold their end of the partnership agreement – as a two-way relationship – and talked about the possibility of a singing, cultural & mission tour to Melbourne in the next 18 months.
The building of a shop near the Best Public Toilet was discussed, plus improved signage and ways to better market the facility with a view to taking it to the “next level”
Kalmairie even mentioned that … “now that you, Robert, are Man-Paunangisu, next time you come to Vanuatu we need to find some land in the village for you to build your Kastom house, so you have a place to stay each time you come home …” This really took me by surprise and I felt honoured by the gesture. Looks like my shopping list will include a “bush-knife” next time I visit the village.
Back Home to “normal life”
It’s now Friday morning 20 October and I’ve been back in Melbourne a day and a half. There’s been a lot of sleeping, with the garden and lawns around home looking a bit overgrown … to put it politely. It’s also a lot colder than what I’m used to, although not having that feeling of “constant perspiration” is a welcome relief.
Adjusting back to “normal life” here in Australia typically takes a few days … particularly under a barrage of (mostly depressing) news – both local and global – plus “urgent” media reports and conversations on such trivial, first-world issues as “same-sex marriage” and “fluid gender identity” … save me !?
In contrast, Vanuatu, with its lack of material wealth and sophistication, seems remarkably well-adjusted and down-to-earth – capable of teaching us an awful lot about the important things in life.
Let’s just hope and pray that with the passage of time, we don’t inadvertently drag the people of Vanuatu down to our level. To a place where, as a country, we seem to have forgotten (or are hell-bent on white-anting) the foundations on which we derive our freedom and way-of-life. And where a cohesive community of caring people is fast being replaced by a selfish society of individuals, standing for little of substance yet willing to fall for anything.
Time spent amongst the people of Vanuatu, particularly on the outer islands, helps put things into perspective … particularly when their primary concerns are about food and water security, paying for kid’s education, relieving toothache, affording necessary transport, rebuilding after cyclones (or managing the impact of volcanic eruptions), obtaining pain relief in death and medical care more generally. Again, there is a lot they can teach us…
One day out of port
As I write, Chimere is making good time, having completed their first day at sea. By tomorrow they will be past New Caledonia’s north coast and entering the Tasman Sea. Track their location by visiting www.msm.org.au
Smooth seas, fair breeze and ready to return
Rob Latimer
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