Saturday 14 August 2010 Port Vila (reported from Melbourne by RL)

I suppose this is technically NOT an official Ships Log entry, given that I’m now back in Melbourne and no longer aboard Chimere.  My son James just called it the Lounge Log … which is more correct I suppose as I sit here in front of the heater, still shivering under several layers of clothing.  All those friends back home were right … it is cold in Melbourne.  (Time for me to stop joking about suffering under 25 degree sunny tropical skies I suppose)

It’s a strange feeling … being off the boat after 6 weeks or so.  The new skipper … carry-over champion past skipper … Bob Brenac came aboard at the seawall Thursday morning.  Bob passed his bags down and into my cabin pretty much as I was passing my bags up and out through the companionway.  Bob had spent the past few days relaxing with wife Bev at a nearby resort but by Thursday it was time to get down to business, with last minute lists and instuctions to go through.

“If you’ve forgotten anything, or there’s stuff still to do, don’t worry about it” said Bob as I attended to last minute jobs and added new things to the list. Bob then added … “As we said when we got off the boat in May … leave something for the next crew to do!”

But I couldn’t help myself … “The water tanks are full, there’s a new full gas bottle up under the seat, the stove and the left hotplate are still tempermental to light, there’s plenty of breadmix left over to make bread, you’ll need to top up with diesel before you leave, there’s heaps of food, you have 30 litres of petrol for the Honda generator, the dinghy’s pretty much lashed down, there’s a list of things here as a reminder, and I’ve downloaded a 5 day weather forecast it’s on the computer  ….” you get the idea.

“Yep, no worries, got that, yeh, OK, excellent, very good…”,  Bob replied to each point in turn … he at least seemed to be taking it all in.

“Now Bob, do you think you might be able to send us an email each day on SailMail to let us know where you are and how things are going?” I asked.

“Everything will be fine … don’t you worry about a thing.  No news is good news”

Fastforward to just a few minutes ago, 11:30am Saturday 14 August…

… Bob just called me on the mobile phone from Port Vila to let me know that he’d cleared Immigration yesterday and Customs this morning and they intend to set sail this afternoon.  Then I think he said something like … “when the last of the Tusker is loaded aboard”  but I may have misinterpreted that bit.  Apparently everything is closed in Vila on Monday and to get some action out of Customs on Saturday morning was quite an achievement, but Bob was advised by Immigration that they were clearing out a cargo ship this morning and that if he arrived over at the wharf before 10:00am then they’d do Chimere as well.

The new volunteer crew, comprising Carl, Tony, Rhod and Rim, arrived safely yesterday, with Carl (Warner) nearly being forgotten on account of him already arriving in Port Vila six days ago with his wife Sue for a pre-voyage holiday.  But Bob assured me that there were definitely five people on board now and the last of the jobs were being done in readiness for letting go the lines.

As for the weather … well it’s currently blowing from the north-east in Vila, which is rather unusual, but pretty good if you’re going south-west.  Unfortunately it’s not going to stay long from the north, but from what we can see it doesn’t look too bad for tomorrow and beyond.

While on the phone I reminded Bob about maybe sending an email each day and suggested that Tony might enjoy doing that.  I then heard Bob let out a cry … “Tony, got a job for you, you’ve just been volunteered”  or something to that effect.  “What about making bread Bob,” I asked, “did you get someone to take that on?”     “No” said Bob, “I think I’ve been volunteered for that one”

No doubt everyone aboard will be getting excited as last minute tasks are attended to, including securing a suitable bunk for the next 2 weeks, finding a home for personal gear, getting familiar (or re-acquainted in the case of Tony and Bob) with the workings of the boat, making sure the deck hatches are (now) leak-proof and working out a schedule of watches for the 24 hour a day voyage.

On the food front, there is everything a crew could hope for … canned beans, canned spaghetti, canned tuna, canned peaches, canned soup, canned bullybeef, oh, and I think there might be half a dozen of Martin’s famous frozen beef meals still in the freezer … come to think of it, I forgot to mention that to Bob, but I’m sure he’ll find them.  Plus there’s the usual packet noodles, pasta, crackers, rice, breadmix flour (complements of Linda Latimer) 2 minute soup, muesli bars and long life milk … and Bob’s special box of (Ironman Food) Keloggs Nutrigrain and tin of International Roast instant coffee (aaarrghhhh)

So that’s that latest.  All being well, we will indeed get the occassional Ships Log from the lads over the next couple of weeks as they inch their way back to Sydney.  Which reminds me … Australian Customs require at least a 4 day notification of arrival, better get onto that …

Smooth seas, fair breeze and the return journey begins

Rob Latimer

Tuesday 10 August 2010 Pt Vila, Vanuatu

It’s been a few days since the last Ships Log, but then not a lot has happened; at least not a lot of a Medical Sailing Ministries nature.  With this year’s mission at an end, we are just days away from the latest volunteer crew coming aboard and sailing Chimere back to Sydney.  Hopefully the journey home will be a bit more pleasant than the trip over back in April.

But whilst I’ve been playing the tourist with Linda, Matt, James and Bianca for the past few days, the real purpose of today’s Ships Log is to report that we are all OK after this afternoon’s big earthquake.  And this one was definitely a big one, even by local standards.

After much discussion, planning and pontificating (spread over several days) it just so happened that our little family group was over at the nearby island of Iririki when the earthquake hit; just 2 minutes away (by small ferry boat) from Port Vila and the seawall where Chimere finally secured a spot yesterday.  We had gone there for an afternoon swim and to check out the facilities available to those who come here with bigger holiday budgets than us.  Anyway, there we were frolicking in one of the many beautifully blue and manicured pools – I think James was demonstrating his new patented “swimming” stroke which resembled more the actions of a drowning man – when Matt all of a sudden looked deadly serious and called out “what’s that!”.  We all stopped our frolicking and sure enough there was a rumbling sound, fast getting louder and quickly followed by a sense of things moving.  The pool was moving, the paved area around the pool was moving, the trees and palms were moving and then almost as quickly, the water IN the pool began moving, initially back and forth, then in all directions as the water was turned into violent waves which rode up and out of the pools flooding surrounding decks, paths and gardens for quite some distance.

Standing in the pool while all this was happening seemed surreal and the natural question came to mind – whether to stay put until things stopped, or get out onto dry land?  In the end we managed to get out and stand on the edge of the pool, as the land continued to move from side to side under our feet.   It seemed to go on for some time – maybe 30-60 seconds and soon after people emerged from the nearby apartments and units with stories of moving furniture, swaying walls and emptying cupboards.  There really was a collective sense that this was a serious event and complete strangers easily engaged in discussion about their recent experience.

Matt and I made our way in the direction of the small ferry stop where we could get a view across the small inner harbour to Port Vila and where Chimere was tied up against the seawall.  Nothing had changed.

Returning to the pool things had settled down, apart from the pools being 6-12 inches shallower and out dinners were just being delivered with the instruction that we should make our way to the top of the island – as a precaution.  We followed the instructions, walking up the hill still munching from the dinner plate we carried with us.  However, part of me wanted to get over to the seawall in order to be ready to move Chimere off the wall and out into deep water if required.  In the end we deduced that there’d be no time to do anything anyway and apart from that, the ferry boat had stopped taking people to shore so there was no way of getting there in any case.

My phone began to ring about this time and it occurred to us that a few friends back home might have heard of the quake and might, just might, be interested in learning that we were all safe and well … and so is Chimere.

After the all clear was given we made it back to Port Vila and Chimere we learned of damage in a few places, but as yet the severity of the damage is yet to be assessed.  James spoke to a couple from the nearby highrise swish hotel and casino.  They were being transferred to alternative accommodation on Iririki Island because a crack had appeared in the wall of their unit.  So no doubt we’ll learn about it all tomorrow.  The details I’ve picked up so far can be summarised … 7.5 on the Richter Scale, centred very close to Port Vila and with a 20-30cm tsunami.

I’m sure we’ve felt a few after shocks, but nothing to compare with the big one late this afternoon.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and terra more firma

Rob Latimer

Pt Vila, Efate Is Wednesday 4 August 2010

There is definitely an air of the mission for 2010 coming to an end with Mike and Lanie making their way to the Vila airport this afternoon and from there to Australia.  It was sad to say good-bye with both providing an invaluable contribution to the operation of MSM for 2010.

At the moment it’s just me and Matt aboard as we await the arrival of the volunteer return crew of five in about a week, headed up by carry-over champion MSM skipper Bob Brenac.

Before that … in fact, in about 2 hours from now, we pick up from the Vila airport my wife Linda, second son James and Matt’s girlfriend Bianca; over here for a few days to take advantage of the yacht’s brief layover before sailing home to Australia.

As a result of the mission for 2010 effectively coming to an end there really isn’t a lot to report – at least not of an MSM nature.  Consequently, there might be a break of a few days between Ships Logs over the next few weeks.

As a parting gesture here we have a few words from Lanie … typed recently as her tour was coming to an end …

Lanie …

Five weeks ago this amazing journey with MSM began in Santo -  now we can look back on Chimere having taken Mission 3 approx 600 miles in total around the eastern islands of Vanuatu – not in a “straight line” of course, as we zigzagged from island to island and village to village!

Travelling south over the last 3 days, there has been  time to reflect on the places we have been, the people we have met and the work that has been done. There is a sense of satisfaction that there has been a difference made in the lives of some of the people of Vanuatu. In turn they  have touched each and everyone of us !
I wonder how it will be integrating back into life as it was before! The fast pace, time lines, commitments, material world etc etc!

The things that seemed challenging at sea and on the mission will now be fond memories! Things like navigating a moving stove, early morning wake up calls and staying upright while the winds and waves push Chimere around in a rough sea! Brushing teeth on deck from a cup to conserve water, fanning myself to sleep because it is hot and humid, being woken by the anchor alarm! Lying in my bunk being rolled from side to side and rocked to sleep. Life on board the ship Chimere is an experience money can’t buy!

How wonderful life has been on the islands and living aboard Chimere!

Words cannot describe the inspiration, motivation, enthusiasm and endless commitment and drive through the successes and challenges to the program led by our Skipper Rob!

A crew that met briefly before the outset of the mission now developed a bond, camaraderie, friendship that could have had an alternative outcome.   Thankyou to the boys for making life for a “girl”, a time to remember … plus with the occasional cup  of tea in bed !!!!

This is really the last opportunity for me to sign off.  I am lashed to the mast … don’t send me home!!!!

Smooth seas fair breeze and the journey continues …

Lanie

Pt Vila, Efate Is Tuesday 3 August 2010

As Mike and Lanie prepare to fly home to Australia tomorrow we reflect on one aspect of the program … Medical Records

Mike (who, by the way, is 62 today!!) takes up the story …

A few posts ago, there was a comment from Mike about the ‘bondage’ of medical records and how these kept him on the boat a number of times whilst other crew members went ashore.

Well, a brief word of history and explanation…

During 2009 Mission 3, Dr Graeme Duke came along as the Mission Doctor and also an MSM crew member.  When we commenced our first clinic, Graeme commenced his normal consultation process and recorded results and notes for each patient on the standard Vanuatu Prevention of Blindness Program Patient Form.  When he returned to the boat, he commenced entering the day’s patient records on the computer.  After about two records, it became obvious that between us, we had some skills to help design an excel spreadsheet and to record all the data for each clinic.  Data entry was cumbersome, so forms were developed to ease the ‘tedium’ and speed up the process.  And so was born, the first ‘general’ electronic individual patient records for the Vanuatu Prevention of Blindness Program and as we were to learn at a later date, the first individual electronic patient records for these people.

You may say there is nothing unusual about recording basic medical details, blood pressure, heart rate, temperature and blood sugar along with base demographic details (clinic, date, name, age, village etc).  It’s what happens each time you go to the doctor and who in many cases have your records since you were born. In the remote villages, the local nurse (if they are lucky and have one!) maintain some notes, but also have a good memory.

And so it was, that during the 2009 Mission 3, medical records were created at the end of each day’s clinic, and by the later clinics, a computer was taken ashore (with a data entry operator) to complete the records in the clinic.  Have you ever used a computer with a dozen heads looking over your shoulder? It does change the way you type!

At the end of the Mission, Don McRaild mentioned these records to the Deputy Minister of Health during his regular post mission ministerial update of the Program.  The records were grasped enthusiastically and quickly analysed from a health perspective (well! quickly for a government department), and soon passed on to the Education Department for further analysis.  From the feedback the program received, we understand they were their first electronic individual patient records for the remote islands.

And so we pass to 2010, where recording the individual patient records for all Missions is a standard part of the program. We estimate that about 30 records an hour can be input.  With about 600 records for this Mission, plus referrals many hours were spent inputting the records by Matthew, Lanie and Mike.  Of course, checking each entry is correct is also time consuming – have you tried to read a doctor or optometrist’s writing and interpret their medical shorthand and their hieroglyphics?

The current Vanuatu Health Ministry statistics became more clear during our recent visit to Mary Tabi and the Lolowai Hospital. Rob, Matthew and Lanie had gone ashore soon after dropping anchor and had met a range of people including a person named Jackson the ‘hospital statistician’ who was keen to find out what medical records we kept.  A meeting time was arranged and statistical stories ‘enthusiastically exchanged’.  Jackson was the Medical Statistician for the Panma Region, which includes the islands of Pentecost, Ambae and Maewo.  Each month a one page activity summary is collected from the 34 Aid Posts and 17 Health Centres across the region. These are entered into a PC based system and each month (along with Lolowai Hospital patient discharge records) are sent on a flash drive (electronic storage device) by plane to Port Vila.  There is no email or internet access available in these areas.

Jackson then proceeded to describe how he was trying to catch up with his data entry, as his computer had recently been away for a couple for weeks in Port Vila having a software upgrade applied.  However, with a broad smile, he turned to me and said “I happy, I nearly catchup!”. He took great pride in what he did and had recently been on a two weeks training course in Brisbane to learn the full medical coding system.

Following his description of the medical summaries, I then described and demonstrated the medical records we kept as part of the program – “we don’t keep individual patient records was his response, only record the discharge records from this hospital.  Maybe its something for the future!”  With that the significance of (and value of the records became more apparent). They gave the health department the opportunity to identify issues at a clinic and village level and respond with the required treatments and education.

The Mission 3 data entry is complete and final aggregations and summaries being made before they are emailed to Richard Tatwin, Graeme Duke and Don McRaild for their further analysis and use.

We are now back in Port Vila and have email facilities available.

Smooth Seas, Fair breeze and completed medical records.

Mike Clarke

Monday 2 August 2010 Pt Vila, Efate Is

After a sleep-in till 6:00am it was up-anchor and away in the morning light. Around the point from Havannah Harbour and into Port Vila. We radioed the marina, Yachting World, upon our arrival and sure enough, things were pretty busy with yachts and motor launches from all over the world packed in like sardines. But as expected a mooring was found for Chimere nearby, with a dinghy wharf available for us to tie up when we come ashore. It really is a wonderful spot and from Saturday we might even be able to tie up at the seawall, (when some of the other yachts move on) making coming and going as simple as walking the plank; the plank we’ll attached from the bow to the wharf that is.

The sail around from Havannah Harbour was simple enough, taking about 3-4 hours and after ppicking up the mooring and doing a bit of house keeping it was up town for the usual hamburger and chips at Jill’s Cafe. (A burger never tasted so good!)

As we came back to Chimere in the late afternoon we saw a yachtie off a nearby boat, Windcastle, putter by in his dinghy. I called him over for a chat and pretty soon he was on deck chatting with us all over a coffee and nibbles. His name is Doug Nash and he’s a retired NASA geologist and worked on the very first lunar samples brought back by the Apollo program. He was also an expert on Solar wind and the moons of Jupiter as well as being a veteran of the Korean War, where he served several years on aircraft carriers – it all made for a fascinating discussion.

Sadly, you may have read about Doug earlier this year in the Australian papers in an article headed Death in Paradise. It chronicled the events leading up to, and following, the death of his wife on the nearby island of Epi, about this time last year. We were here at that time last year and it was certainly a very sad story with her death resulting from the taking of what is claimed to be a “miracle” cure; for a range of complaints including malaria.

It got dark as we chatted on deck and so naturally Doug stayed for dinner. He had some amazing stories and explained in some detail the 12 month battle he’s had to establish some closure following the death of his wife.

Tomorrow it’s clean-up day, as we begin the task of preparing the boat for the eventual sail back to Sydney – the volunteer return crew will be arriving in about a week.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and back in Vila

Robert Latimer

PS From an anonymous MSM Cub Reporter, Dr Graeme Duke … somewhere in the southern hemishpere.

MSM: what’s in a name?

What does MSM stand for? What does MSM really mean? For the past two years we have been led to believe that MSM was the abbreviation for “Medical Sailing Ministries”. On the msm.org.au website there is even a section entitled “Who Is MSM?” and this informs us that MSM is the result of the creative genius of Rob and Andrew Latimer and Mike Clarke.

OK, so we know “who” MSM is. But do we really know what the letters “MSM” really stand for? This is an intriguing question. What is MSM? What do the letters really stand for?

Those who have read any of the Ship’s Logs (msm.org.au) might be forgiven for thinking that “MSM” had meanings other than simply Medical Sailing Ministries. And I strongly suspect the crew and many of the Ship’s Log readers would have their own suggestions – some flattering, others less so. For example, Memorable Sailing Moments. Or Masterchef Sea-faring Menus. Or Motion Sickness Miseries. Or Mobile Shipwrights and Mechanics. Or simply, Mostly Silly Men (except for the women.) At the very least we would have to admit that MSM is a Many Sided Mission.

So what do you think “MSM” stands for? Why not send us your suggestions? Post them in the “Leave a comment” section below. Only three words are required. Or vote for one of the suggested interpretations. No explanation necessary. If you are a member of the Chimere Crew or any of the VPOB Teams send us your experiences. Even if you are a first-time reader of the 2010 Ship’s Log then please submit your answer to the question ‘What does MSM stand for?’

Here are some other suggestions.

Is MSM the abbreviated title of A Medical Sailing Miniseries? For those who remember the 2009 Ship’s Log you may recall that this was an accidental slip-of-the-tongue suggestion made by Anne Shoebridge. I am not sure this isn’t a better definition. The evidence in favour of this interpretation is over-whelming. Go back and look at the size and extent of last-years 2009 Ship’s Log, (132 entries) not to mention the size of this year’s (yet to be completed with 123 entries) tome. Maybe “miniseries” is underselling the sheer size of the MSM Ship’s Logs? They are big enough to challenge Tolstoy’s “War And Peace” or Dostoyevsky’s “The Brothers Karamazov” for size, excitement, and social commentary, and “The Simpsons” for laughter and entertainment.

So watch out for the Medical Sailing TV Miniseries, coming soon on SBS. Follow the swashbuckling adventures of Admiral Latimer and his crew. Those of you who have watched and been riveted to the series “Bass Strait Fury I” and “Bass Strait Fury II” will be impatient to see this new reality TV series!

Or maybe MSM is really the Mudbrick Sailing Miniseries? Can anyone remember a blog that has not mentioned mudbrick making? Or plans to make mudbricks? Or a discussion about mudbricks? If you can find any, these chapters are the rare exceptions that prove the rule: MSM is really a Mudbrick Miniseries. Did Rob have a sheltered and mud-less upbringing? Or did he miss out on making mud-pies during kindergarten?  From the little I knew of Bill (his dad) I doubt it. Bill loved engineering and construction and I suspect there’s a fair bit of Bill in Rob. And I bet Bill is looking down now and having a grand old laugh at his younger son sailing the seas of Vanuatu and the number of mudbricks he has left strewn throughout its islands! I suspect that in a thousand year’s time the origin of the mud-bricks of Vanuatu will be a great source of confusion for the archeologists.

Or could it be that MSM stands for “Magic, Serendipity, and Miracles”? As I trawled back through the blogs of this year and last I was struck by the frequency of these apparent coincidences. Have you noticed this too? Take for instance the numerous mechanical problems for whom the right person in the right time was ‘found’ to repair it. Or the ‘unexpected’ arrival of a volunteer to fill a gap in the crew when it was needed.

There has been many medical miracles too. Remember when the cruise ship (with an Xray machine and medical assistance) just ‘happened’ to appear over the horizon when Andy broke his hand. And poor Jessie who came down with malaria during clinic hours (How thoughtful of her!) and near an airport so she could fly home. The medical teams just ‘happened’ to turn up in time to find Addison (encephalocele), Lerica (leaky heart valve), Linda (caesarean delivery), Steven (broken arm), and more recently Marrepea (Parkinson’s), Thersina (infected arm), Rowena (hole in the heart), Judith (leaky heart valve) and Martin, evacuated from Mere Lava and near-blind with two cataracts.

Recently we read of the ‘finding’ of the stolen tiny iPod in the Vanuatu haystack. And then there has been the safety of all the VPOB teams over its 11 years of service.

What about the numerous ‘unexpected’ answers that relate to the development of remote dental services on Vanuatu. Barry Stewart (North Ringwood) put Rob onto the simple and effective ART regimen for dental restoration. What about Katrina in Vanuatu who thought she couldn’t complete her dental training? Rob heard about Katrina from a Peace Corp worker on one island by ‘accident’, and then managed to track her down and meet her on another island that she just ‘happened’ to be visiting. And she wants to learn more dentistry! Then there is, also, Bob and Philip who are keen to learn and do more in this area.

These are a small selection of the magic, serendipity and miracles that have accompanied MSM and the VPOB project. There are many more. If you don’t believe me go back and read for yourself.

Surely that’s all just coincidence and fate, many of us would say. Well, that’s what I thought too. But if you look at the facts there are just a few too many ‘coincidences’. There are simply too many for them to be all random events. But if they are not chance events what is the explanation? Is there another explanation? It’s starting to look like magic! Put all these apparent coincidences together and it’s starting to look like less like fate and more like there is a plot behind it all. Or a story. Could it be magical story? But if it is magic, or if there is a story behind it all then there must be a Magician; there must be a Story-Teller. Maybe MSM means there is a Master Story-teller & Magician after all?

Sunday 1 August 2010 (Havannah Harbour, Efate Is, 17 36.31S, 168 14.60E)

Revolieu Bay on Epi, or “Ravioli Bay” as Lanie would sometimes mistakenly say, is the sort of place to come back to. After arriving late yesterday and enjoying a blissfully still night at anchor we were off again this morning at 5:30; little more than 12 hours later. There wasn’t even enough time to get the dinghy over the side for an explore, but onshore there was a river, a long pebbly “beach” with beckoning children, plus a village somewhere hidden within the dense forest which began just above high tide mark and extended up and inland to the high hills in the distance.

It was still pretty dark as we quietly headed out of the bay and the sea was very calm as we made our way down the sheltered west coast. Occasionally there was a rolly bump for Chimere to climb up and over which seemed to tell of what was to come. In an act of brilliant forward planning, we all had a snack for breakfast while conditions remained calm because as the wind picked up and the effects of the exposed sea curving around the bottom of the island began to be felt, food became a tad difficult to prepare. (assuming we were inclined to eat it)

With the mainsail already reefed, the jib was rolled in a little to shorten sail in order to make things a bit more comfortable. In the end it was a similar run to the previous day, with the wind just staying east of our final destination to enable us to lay a course for Havannah Harbour just around the corner from Pt Vila. The sea was just as confused but with a bigger swell causing occasional waves to hit the port side, shooting skyward only to strategically land in the lap of the helmsman with the aid of the 25+ knot wind. Or the bow to sink into the crest of a wave thereby scooping a quantity of water onto the deck which would then race down the lower starboard side slowly emptying away over time and only once reaching all the way down to the cockpit. It was a fun and lively time, with speed being maintained at around 6 knots, and even faster when rain squalls came through on account of the stronger wind at these times and the way the heavy rain would flatten out the sea.

We arrived here at Havannah Harbour around 4:00pm this afternoon, just in time for a quick swim. Again, there was no time to get the dinghy over the side, as we’ll be away again early tomorrow for the short hop around to the capital city – Pt Vila.

One problem we will have upon our arrival tomorrow in Pt Vila is … where we will be staying?. Last year, and earlier this year. we were easily accommodated at “Yachting World” on the seawall in the middle of town, however, this time the place is reportedly chocka, with several yacht rallys and round the world groups having booked up every berth and mooring for the month of August. Fortunately, we’ve got to know the owner/manager of Yachting World, Elsie, quite well by now. In fact the last two times we’ve stayed in Pt Vila, Elsie has not charged us at all, because she really likes the work we’ve been doing around the islands transporting medical teams. So when I contacted Elsie recently about a possible possy for Chimere for a couple of weeks … her response was … “we’ll see what we can do”. So here’s hoping!!

Lanie commented tonight, with a touch of sadness, as we munched through another lovely meal, that tomorrow will be her last day of sailing after 5 weeks aboard. Mike then wistfully wondered how he’s going to get shoes and socks on again, let alone a suit, when he returns to work soon. Matt was worried that when he returns to Melbourne he might feel inclined to ask total strangers whether they have any pamplemousse they might like to trade, or better still, some bananas. In any case, it’s clear that the medical transport mission for 2010 has come to an end and we have definitely entered the “getting home” phase of the operation.

For tomorrow it’s just a few hours sail around to Vila, so as a special treat, we are all sleeping in till 6:00am. Once again the sky is full of stars and our anchorage is as calm as a marina berth.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and in Pt Vila tomorrow

Rob Latimer

Saturday 31 July 2010 Revolieu Bay, Epi 16  43.75S,  168 08.66E

In talking with other yachties it’s clear, everyone loves sailing north, but no one likes sailing south.  Little wonder the northern Vanuatu islands of the Banks and Torres are so rarely visited.

Boats arrive in Pt Vila, start heading north with a beautiful breeze over their right shoulder then finally realise half way up the country that this wind will be on the nose when it finally comes time to turn around and head home.  Occasionally the wind comes from other directions, and sometimes near islands or in the gaps between islands the wind will behave in funny ways, but mostly at this time of year it’s the south east trade winds that blow.

So it was with an air of trepidation that we headed off from Pentecost this morning around 3:30am.  The wind had been blowing strong at around 25 knots from the south east for the past few days so we knew we’d be in for some uncomfortable moments.  But the first stretch to the western tip of Ambrym Island was something of a dream run, however, as we set a course south west from Pentecost.  Speeds regularly tipped 8 knots as we raced over flat seas with the wind on the port beam.  The tricky bit was taking a left turn around the corner of Ambryn and setting a course south east for Epi; a leg we reserved for daylight, hence the early start.

Our initial expectation was for big seas and the need to tack a several times, but as things turned out the further south we headed the more the wind shifted east enabling us in the end to lay a course pretty much south east, roughly in the direction of Epi, our final destination. The seas were still quite big, but more than that, they seemed very confused with tidal runs in certain spots combining with the wind to create waves from all directions.  In the end we hand-steered the whole 12 hours to Epi and remarkably Matt managed to stay in his forward bunk through some of the worst of this, nearly bouncing off the ceiling at times.

Here at Revolieu Bay it’s calmer than a marina berth with the stars now filling the sky and the wind gusting down the lush valley ashore making our wind generator earn its keep as it spins into a frenzy every now and then.

We said our good-byes to the yacht Bob last night, but as we parted Bruce related a story of having been in the local village of Loltong on children’s day (24/7).  Apparently it was “games time” in the afternoon’s proceedings and this particular game seemed to be a cross between Pin The Tail On The Donkey and the one where the kids use a stick to beat lollies from a suspended paper donkey.

In this local Vanuatu game a child is blindfolded, given a pair of long pointy scissors and aimed in the direction of lollies hanging on strings from a nearby tree.  The object being for the child to use the scissors two-handed to cut the lollie-strings in order to score some treats.  As Bruce related, with a touch of humour and disbelief – disbelief that no one seemed to be injured or maimed – the child with the scissors never seemed to be in any danger.  It was all the other children gathered excitedly around, directing the blindfolded child, and just inches away from being stabbed, who seemed at greatest risk while the operator of the scissors wildly attacked the air like you would trim a hedge.  If it wasn’t for the children’s familiarity with knives, basically from the day they are weaned, and their ability to (mostly) avoid danger, the casualty rate from this game would no doubt be too high.

So once again, it’s time for bed.  It’ll be another early morning tomorrow as we take another hop south – to Havannah Harbour on Efate island and just around the corner from Port Vila.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and nearly “home”.

Rob Latimer

Copy from Chimere Ships Log
Saturday 31 July 2010
Waterfall Bay (Pentecost Island) to Revolieu Bay (Epi Island) – 75 nautical miles.

Flat calm, peaceful, picturesque anchorage. Fishing platform and reef to starboard.
“Bumpy sail” Good Progress towards Vila – 12 hrs.
Early start – no need to launch the dinghy.

Friday 30 July, Waterfall Bay, Pentecost 15.47.18S  168.09.73E

Our initial introduction to this waterfall was some weeks ago while travelling North! A continuous torrent of water falling some 50 metres into a plunge-pool was a great sight through the binoculars.

And so it was that at 9.30am, we met our friends from the yacht ‘Bob’ anchored nearby (Bruce, Nicola, Ella(13) and Poppy(9)), and along with Jocelyn our guide from a nearby bungalow, set off to walk to the waterfall.  All four of the crew joined in the adventure, as Mike now free of the bonds of medical records, was able to come ashore.  After a brief 10 minute walk through sometimes muddy grassland and fording a river, we came to a gate barrier made up of six cross beams.  Have to keep the cows out was Jocelyn’s response and a little later we saw the reason why.  The area we were visiting was a prime area for growing the kava plant – a bulbous root plant with lush green foliage which I’m sure the cows would devour at their earliest opportunity. Given the significance of kava, it’s not surprising there were wire fences and gates protecting the area.

After a couple of minutes moving aside poles, we proceeded through the gate barrier with the crashing of water into the plunge pool getting ever closer.  Another few minutes along the slippery, muddy and sometimes steep track, we were standing on a rock outcrop with the amazing waterfall plunging in a surreal vista before us.  A great photo opportunity not to be missed.  The full set of photos were taken, just like a formal occasion – father and son, full ‘Bob” family, Matthew, Lanie and Matthew etc, and finally all Mission 3 crew, (what remains of it) all with the wonderful waterfall in the background.

When this was complete, we all turned from this rocky outcrop to tackle the slippery track back down to the plunge-pool that we had all been so looking forward to.  Not five minutes later, we were at the base of the waterfall and ready to pick our way through the rocks to the pool.   “It’s no use hanging about, get straight in” was the call and within a couple of minutes the initial shock of cold water was over as we swam around this cascade pool.  The waterfall has a series of cascades, with the one we entered being the first cascade after the main plunge-pool that received a 50 metre high torrent of water.  A number of the more adventurous climbed into the main pool and under the waterfall, but the rocks were somewhat slimy and extra slippy.  The less adventurous of us (ie me Mike) quickly retreated to the lower pool to relax in the more gently flowing torrent.

We had been looking forward to this waterfall for a couple of days and none of us were disappointed.  We spent the rest of the morning in the water, and decided that as it was approaching mid-day we should slowly retrace our steps to the Guest House where lunch was being prepared by Jocelyn.  Rob had earlier negotiated lunch with Jocelyn and struck a good deal.  A very tasty lunch of rice, chicken pasta, river prawn soup and banana lap-lap was served to all ten of us – a couple on their honeymoon (Paul and Amy) who were staying at the Guesthouse joined us for lunch.  Lemon drink was also provided and for the princely sum of 500 Vatu (AUD 6 dollars) in total – the four crew members were well fed.

Many questions were asked about the food and particularly the making of the banana lap-lap and it was revealed that lap-lap is the name of the process by which the ‘delicacy’ is prepared and can be made from many different ingredients.  Today’s being made from banana, wrapped in island cabbage.  This is the best we have eaten – but still a very acquired taste.

A walk along the road to the next village in search of ‘lady finger’ bananas was made, before returning to the beach, the dinghy and Chimere banana-less!

The family on “Bob” who are travelling around the South Pacific, came back to Chimere for afternoon tea and the obligatory MSM 2009 Video.  This time Mission 3 (Banks and Torres) was played as Bruce had wanted to sail into the middle of the extinct volcano at Ureparapara as Chimere did last year. After a hour or so of additional chat and nearing dark, it was time to bid farewell to out new found Kiwi friends and commence preparing Chimere for a 3.00am start for the 14 hour sail to Lamman bay on Epi island.

A magical day visiting the amazing waterfall!

Smooth seas, fair breeze and a magical waterfall

Mike Clarke

[A short post means more time to explore all the new images uploaded in different galleries. - admin]

Thursday 29 July 2010 Waterfall Bay, Pentecost 15 47.20S, 168 09.70E

It was a lazy kind of day today.  After dropping anchor late yesterday here at Waterfall Bay we followed it up today with a sleep-in, some baking, swimming and general maintenance work onboard.  There was also the arrival of a yacht we’d met earlier called “Bob” with New Zealand family Bruce, Nicola and daughters, Ella and Poppy aboard.

We were going to go up to the big waterfall, just a short walk inland, but with one thing and another and the arrival of the yacht “Bob” here at the anchorage we didn’t get around to it.

Tomorrow is the BIG celebration day here in Vanuatu.  There’s lots of pig and bullock killing going on because it’s 30 years tomorrow that Vanuatu celebrates its independence from England and France.  Some villages along the coast here and no doubt throughout all of Vanuatu, are pretty much deserted at the moment with big crowds gathering at central villages for sports tournaments, feasts, speeches, flag raisings and kava consumption.

Hopefully we finally get to the waterfall tomorrow and can report on our very own Independence Day celebrations.

After doing nothing today, and hosting the crew of “Bob” aboard Chimere for dinner tonight everyone is particularly tired and so tonight’s Ships Log is a bit light on for content.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and waterfall tomorrow.

Robert Latimer

[Lots of new images uploaded in different galleries. Enjoy! - admin]

Wednesday 28 July 2010 Waterfall Bay, Pentecost 15 47.20S,  168 09.70S

After a relaxed start to the day at our last anchorage, (somewhere in the South Pacific), we finally began our journey south to Port Vila, signaling the end of this tour.

We had intended to evacuate a young boy with a suspected stress fracture of the knee but after making contact this morning by phone with the village nurse and hearing of his progress after taking some basic pain killing and anti-inflammatory drugs, it was decided to leave him be.

This meant that we didn’t have to drop into Asanvari, nor alter our plans to come home via Santo.  Instead we headed pretty much due south, with the west coasts of Maewo and Pentecost on our left all day.  This afforded us a considerable amount of protection from the wind and high seas which have been howling in from the south east at 25-35 knots and punishing (as it always does) the east coast of the islands.

Starting out late this morning we motor-sailed for about 50 miles, making it to Waterfall Bay, just south of Melsisi as the last of the (very brief) twilight gave way to darkness.  It was a touch of impeccable timing with the anchor being dropped in 10 metres of water a few hundred metres off a white sandy beach.

We’ve just finished dinner – another wonderful Lanie-concoction -  the wind is howling outside, the sea is remarkably calm and passing rain squalls get us up occasionally to shut the hatches and portholes.

Onshore there are quite a few more lights than you’d normally expect in a place like this, so there’s obviously a source of electricity somewhere – maybe hydro power from the waterfall.  No doubt we’ll find out tomorrow when we go ashore to explore.  Having been up and down this coastline a couple of times now we feel quite at home but the rugged forest-covered and mountainous interior of the island continues to amaze us.

As for Waterfall Bay, I think it’s pretty much the only anchorage in these parts which we haven’t stopped at, and as the name suggests it has a white sandy beach, oh, and a waterfall.  We saw the waterfall from out at sea the other day and it looked spectacular. Tomorrow we hope to get up close and personal with the day set aside for exploring ashore and doing maintenance jobs onboard.  We are down to our last few mud brick moulds and instruction manuals, but I don’t think I can go ashore tomorrow without one of each under my arm.  We’ve done demonstrations in several of the neighbouring villages so maybe the word has got around.  We might even catch up with people met earlier.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and heading south

Robert Latimer